1836 – FIRST DAY OF THIRD EXPEDITION

As it is described, there is a spring coming out of the cave- Rūceklītis (Growler), which has attributed to the cave’s fame. In May, grumbling sounds come from the cave. Scientists explain that this sound can be heard because water pours into an underground lake. The cave is small, but untypical to this region where the river flows through a valley.

Renārs can’t wait to try our new friend’s -DJI Phantom drone’s- abilities in enduro riding conditions. In the swelter of the evening, the drone goes out to play with his relatives- flies and gadflies- which are particularly annoying today. We get some drone shots of Veckārķu castle ruins[57.8096, 25.64172], which are located near the cave.

Veckārķu castle was built shortly before World War I. The construction was carried out by all local builders from Rūjiena to Valka. It was planned to build 100 rooms, but war decided on the future of the building- the uninhabited castle was used as a site for building material by local households. What was once a grand castle project has turned into ruins. The gigantic tower of the now-hideous building rises over the trees, a reminder of early 20th century architecture masterclass. 

Fredis can’t wait to climb the historic site and tries to get to the higher levels. It demands the abilities of a cat and of a mountain climber, but he has both. On our way to Ērģeme castle ruins, we have to look closely to find Smētu great oak[57.79333, 25.70907], which has hid itself in the meadowy area.

Fredis rides first and has chosen a hard path on which ours and the motorcycles’ durability is tested. Our faces and the rides are covered in mud. We roll into Ērģeme at around nine pm and hurry to photograph the castle ruins at sunset. Ērģeme castle [57.8125, 25.83082] used to be a part of the Livonian Order and is first mentioned in 1232. It was destroyed during the Great North War (1700-1721) after the battle of Omuļi, when Swedish soldiers blew it up. A legend tells that the same Swedish soldiers hid large amounts of gold in the castle. The ruins are still there today, but are slowly disappearing due to vandalism and weather conditions.

We hurry to find a camping spot, which we would prefer to be by open water, but nearby Bērzezers lake is surrounded by swamps. The night has fallen and our nerves are in high alert mode when we rush with the evening wind. Near Valka, we find Ezernieki household, which offers accommodation.

We arrive at midnight, but the owner is a kind man and offers us beds for 10 euros a night. There is a pond next to the house where we wash off the day’s sweat and dust. At the campfire, we look back at the adventures of a day on the road.