1836 – second day of eleventh expedition

We don’t lose our hope to reach Stelmužes Great Oak. We follow a much straighter and easier road. Mārtiņš can relax a bit and enjoy riding.

Autumn rain falls and flood was a pain in the ass for local farmers. Harvesters drowned in the wet land and harvesting was endangered. The last sunny, dry days saved the situation, that’s why we still find harvesters and other farming vehicles on road. We stop to film the work of local farmers.

We are right next to Stelmuže, we just have to cross the border of Lithuania. We stop at the border sign. What describes the country? We decide that, first of all, it’s people that lives in a country. And at this moment, we have to find a stereotypical local Lithuanian. After few minutes, in a dust cloud we find one. It’s our long known  motorcyclist Andrius. On the Lithuania’s side we let him lead and he shows us the way to the Great Oak.

When I first heard name of Stelmuže, I thought that is sounds very Latvian – Stelmuiža. After few clicks on the Internet, I discovered that really, from the middle of 16th century until 1921 border split between Lithuania and Latvia, Stelmuiža was a part of Kurzeme parish. This region and this oak is a part of Latvian history.

Scientists have estimated the age of the Oak, it ranges from 1500 to 2000 years, making it one of the oldest in if not the oldest in Europe. It has seen a lot. Old Lithuanian kings, crusaders and knights and Swedish armies. Kaiser’s and Hitler’s armies marched right next to this Oak. Human corpse was found in it’s core and the rifle right next to it, proves that this could be a shelter when Napoleon’s army fled from Russia.

There are legends and myths. It is told that through its cavity one can go underground, that underneath it’s roots there is a hidden treasure. It’s unknown what happened to tree’s top. One legend says that medieval slaves used it to block the way for Russian Tsar.

We have chosen country house Driģenes to spend our night. The shortest way to it is though wet meadows. Twenty minute ride takes more than one and a half hour. The mud sucks us in deeper, there is no turning back and we keep fighting. But the feeling of uncertainty drives us mad. Right at that moment, it occurs to us that our tires are worn at the end of the season. And we should change them. Our bikes have no grip even in dry sports. I got stuck in a way that my bike doesn’t fall. I try to pull it out but with no effect. I have no ground to put my feet, I am sinking in mud. This no time for photos. Everybody comes to my aid and all together we free the bike. 

We already have out fan club – a pack of curious cows watch our activities. At last, we see a distant gravel road. Cows moos us goodbye.

As Vilnis Zeiza said, to love enduro riding, you have to love mud. I don’t know if we are in love with them, but we get off our bikes with a big smiles on our faces. We will remember this road, now we need to think about rest.

Our Driģenes house looks as impressive as in photos. At the end of a country road, next to a forest, on a hill with a beautiful view to Driģenes lake. A man who built this house 100 years ago, knew what he was doing.

This house certainly has seen a lot. You can feel the soul and the character. We open the windows – we will try to be friends with the house. A lady from municipality hands us keys and leaves us be. One bed place costs 2,80 EUR. A proper sauna costs more, but there is no doubt – it will make us happier and cleaner after today’s mud paths. It’s cold inside. We will have to light up 3 fireplaces including sauna. We all head to get firewood.

As an evening performance, Mārtiņš shows us his travel photos from Peru.