Lasīt tālāk
04.Sep
5TH LETTER FROM MĀRIS OLTE
27 Aug
- 2008 -
Author
Māris Olte
Now look so to say, official sign from the last civilized spot on the river. According to our information farther is region which you can not be sure about. We have bumped at the biggest town by the river – Galena. According to our guidebook it is said that we have to travel 18 – 21 days until we will reach the sea and this is the last place where we can buy something at the shop that faintly looks like supermarket. As this is the last populated area on our way to desert land, civilzation is measured by shopping centre’s size.
After we left Tanana we have realised two things. The first – Our only information about the river was Killing`s book “The Legend about Jukon” and there are many exaggerated facts which at some situations you can call lies, but one fact was true. In the Ruby willage lives austrian artist Volfgang. We visited him and got to know much.
At the Volfgangs house is First World War Austrian imperators flag and he himself is pretty mad on Killing who wrote the book about the river. Killing had not only changed facts about his experience in Yukon but become counceited and is not answering to e-mails. Old man told us many stories about history and present in Alaska, even about mamuth bones. It is forbidden to dig for bones, but some time ago even prince Charles was offering 250 000 dollars for mamuth`s skull with tusks. It was in 1972.
The second thing that was news for us is rowing in headwind. Jukon fall, that lasts for one week maximum, has changed direction of the winds. We are still being spoiled by the sun, that shines without a single cloud in the skies and it reminds us a turned on halogen lamp that shines straight into our faces. Weather clearly is getting colder and wind, whois speed is less than 10 metres per second, freezes us and does not let us rest. All in all, our adventure is past halfway. We have managed 570 miles, 520 still to go. It is 827 kilometres, if i am right. As Andis laughs, the same as to row till Warsaw. It is clear now, that Jukon does not care about getting us to Bering sea. It will do, as it wishes. Locals does not even try to predict weather. They say it is useless. We will try to use everything river offers us. We are all ok, paddles are not yet worn. And i hope i will have a chance to send few more lines. No pasaran!
