1836 – FIRST DAY OF THE SIXTH EXPEDITION

All week, the weather forecast were optimistic for the weekend, it would give us a chance to take great pictures of Latgale’s picturesque views in good lighting but we can’t control the weather, we just have to find warm socks and gloves. We start our last 1836 expedition of 2016.

Fredis got flu and will not join us. But we are joined by Dāvis Ivanovs, one of the best motocross racers in Latvia. We will try to warm him up for “Bosch Supercup” motocross race next Sunday. He has to defend his champion’s title.

Four of us head out from Alūksne. It’s 0 degrees outside and snowing. We are heading in the direction of Russian border, using old Gulbene-Alūksne railroad tracks. At the Anna’s station we make a turn use other railroad line Ieriķi-Abrene. It’s abandoned long time ago. We enjoyed it in our last visit. 

In Kuprava we visit an old and abandoned pipe factory built in 1971. It could easily serve as a movie set for film studios. We see the old Latvian SSR flag behind the window used as a curtain. We think that this could be a perfect hideout for illegal border crossers about whom we have heard a lot of stories. With one of them we met Northern Ossetia in 2014 during our Caucasus expedition.

Not so long ago, at the start of September, a Russian amd 10 citizens of Vietname were arrested in Alūksnes district. The citizen of Russia tried to run and border guards had to use firearms. 

At the Žīguri station we stop and Dāvis gets nostalgic. Here, in his father’s house, he had his first experience on a motorcycle. 

Our intentions to go to the Russian border are halted by at the moment when we encounter border guards – a lady, a man and a dog. “Where are you going?”, the man asks us with a smile on his face. But it looks serious. We have to show our documents and the permit that allows us to be in close proximity of the border. Renārs asks about a possibility to film this encounter, but he is denied.

The central of border guards is contacted and our permit is confirmed. We can continue our journey. We kindly ask for a picture of Dāvis and the lady.

Until Kārsava we have 50 km to cover. It’s cold and getting dark. We will spend the night at Anna Ramata’s house, she is a biologist and scientist.

We don’t get a chance to fill our tanks and, few km from Kārsava, two our motorcycles run out of gas.

Renārs grips to my backpack, Dāvis to Jānis’ bag. Jolly connected we roll in Kārsava at night. We fill our tanks in Virši-A petrol station and meet with Anna. Her country house is located three km from Kārsava, in a village called Bozova.

We are surprised by the hospitality as we have never met before. This is not a guest house, she is just willing to share her living space and belongings with four strangers on motorcycles. Even more! Anna has made a bortsch for us and we are invited to a dinner. 

The biologist lives and works in Riga but she comes here every weekend. She was born not far from here. But she left this place when she was just two years old. Strong and deep are roots of this land. And they grant peace and fulfillment when returning home.

Outside, at the fire place we have an interesting topic – GMO and their influence on food and people’s health.

Annas house reminds me of Astrīda Lindgren’s Karlsson’s roof house – it smells of tea leafs, berries, jerked herbs and vegetables. It’s clear as day, this is a house of biologist