FIFTH DAY: FAMOUS ODESSA’S CATACOMBS.

Delays from one to three days are possible, so tourists seldom choose this opportunity. Cabins are limited and you have to book them early like we did more than month ago. Crossing of the Black Sea takes more than 50 hours. Ticket for one passenger costs 2800 grivns (120 eur). Price for one motorbike is 5900 grivns (260 eur).

This is the one and only ferry line that is possible to go to Ukraine from Georgia. (More information can be found http://www.ukrferry.com). Our first reservation for the ferry was planned on May 19, but day before it was moved later for 24h. We are not saddened by this fact and accept it like a gift, because we are in love with Odessa from the first sight.

Leader of motoclub “Motor-Life” Ruberoid and his comrades have greeted us like old childhood friends. So the myth about Odessian hospitality is true and definitely not exaggerated.

Olga who works in the tourist sector is a walking encyclopedia, enlightening us with fresh and unheard stories about city’s history and events.

Chief Ruberoid has found two juvenils Jura and Ksjusha – diggers, who today will show us the famous Odessa’s undergound catacombs – one district 20 km away from the city. Tourists usually are not allowed in there.

Below city’s buildings are 2,500 km long catacombs, which are cut in limestone. First known catacombs are made at the beginning of the 17th century. Most of them are cut at the beginning of the 19th century, when excavated limestone was used to build the city. Shortly after that catacombs was the hideout for criminals, eccentrics and rebels. During World War 2 despite the fact that Soviet army had fled the city in the catacombs were hiding dozens of guerilla groups. Right before Nazi noses they were hiding for 13 months.

Nowadays in Ukraine there is a special subculture with tens of semi professional groups who explore the catacombs and its history. They go on expeditions for days to create the maps of catacomb system. Weapons and grenades are often found in the caves. Once in five years dead bodies of guerillas are discovered. Sometims those remains are in perfect shape – like mummies because of the cold and dry air. 

Temperature outside is 20C, but our two guides recommend to wear the jackets when going underground, because the temperature below varies from 10 – 15C. Entrance to the cave is located next to steep cliff hidden by bushes and grass. It is easily predictable that there is little to none movement on daily basis. Random wanderer has no chance of finding the entrance to the catacombs. Jura before going down under calls his friend, gives him our coordinates and tells approximate time of how long we will be gone. The friend has contacts with MCS (rescue team), who in case of… can try to help us. Satelit and mobile phones, GPS and compasses are not functioning in the caves. We crawl through half ruined pathes and pits for two hours, listen to interesting stories. Air is fresh and it is easy to breath. Even at the moment when Jura gets lost in the labyrinth, i am not scares one bit, because strangely i have the feeling that the guy knows his business. It would be madness to go down to the caves without a guide, because orientation without experience and knowledge is impossible down there

Dirty and sweaty but in great mood we crawl out and get on our bikes to go to the Odessa city.