24 May
- 2015 -
With its 69700 km2 big area Georgia is a bit smaller than Austria or Ireland and by a half smaller than Georgia state in the USA. Half of the teritorry is more than 900 m above the sea level, while one third is covered by woods. Main character when talking about Georgia no doubt is Caucasus, which is located across the Northern border.
Despite the fact that Causasus’ highest peak Elbruss (5642 m) is at the Russian side, Georgia has three peaks above 5000 m – Shkhara (5068 m), Janga (5059 m) and Mkinvartsveri (5033 m).
Georgia has made big work to evolve its regions in much bigger way than other Transcaucasus countries. Since Georgia’s independency central regions of the country have become much more influential. There is one autonomous republic in Georgia – Adzaria, capitalcity Batumi, from where we start our journey today. Abkhazia and Southern Ossetia were once a part of Georgia, but after the warfare they are now under Russia’s control. Their future is under big question mark, because the world’s biggest part don’t count annexion legal.
From East to the West there many cities and villages – Kakheti, Kvemo Kartli, Shida Kartli, Mtskheta-Mtianeti, Samtskhe-Javakheti, Imereti, Racha-Lechkumi, Sanmegrelo, Zemo Svanetti and Guria.
Adzaria’s region and Batumi are the country’s biggest traders with Turkey, Ukraine and Bulgaria. Main parts of the income are subtropical farming, beach resorts, copper and gold mines.
We get off our ferry at 4 in the morning. Georgia’s borderguards and customs have no objections regarding our entry. At the gates of the port we meet Dima from Ukraine. He is returning from Iran with his Honda Crosstourer. He shares his contacts and we get a nice hostel at the centre of Batumi, 12 Asatiani Luka street 12, there in the yard we put our motorbikes to sleep. Kind hostess with Latvian name Maija meets us when the night is darkest. And for 50 lars we get an accomodation in small and simple room.
We get up at 10 am, walk through Batumi’s historical center and go in the direction of Zugdidi city.
Straight from the first driven kilometres we understand that there will be no easy riding in Georgia as local culture of driving is as bad as it is in other Caucasus countries. Police is often seen, it seems they are trying to maintain the order on the roads. Livestock is also a part of the traffic just like it was in Abkhazia.
Temperature outside is around 20C and riding is enjoyable. At the roadsides fresh fish, citrus and fruits previously unseen are being sold. Those strange fruits locals have named mushmula, which Ancient Romans were also cultivating. It tastes the best, when it is getting bad.
Samegrelo (Mingrelia) in Georgia’s Northwest has historically had special regime of autonomy, mainly because the Mingreli people’s dialect is impossible to understand for Tbilisi residents. Regarding politics this teritorry has strong ties with zviadism and is also always been strong opponents for the central government. Capital city of the region Zugdidi is crowded with refugees. City’s income comes from illegal business and smuggling with Abkhazia. Subtropical climate makes tea and citrus fruits as the main products of farming. But Zuggigi people commonly are known for their porcelain and senaki carpets.
In the city with 100 000 population we arrive at 6 pm. One or two hotels can be found, but we would like to stay with locals, so we can get to know better the land where we are guesting.
Just like in Caucasus last year its not a problem in here. In less than 10 minutes by having a conversation at the street we find a chance to stay with Ternike, who lives with his family at the city’s outskirts. After one hour we are at the table and listen to first salutes.